FO: ManjiPuh PUHzzlePulli and PUHzzleLeggings

After living the vintage/rockabilly lifestyle for over 15 years, I am taking advantage of my weightloss to explore new styles. I am kinda salty that as soon as I lose weight, we get rid of skinny jeans and bodycon styles. As my partner, who also lost a good chunk of weight, says “spandex, spandex, spandex”. I’ve tried a few trendy, cottagecore outfits, but they don’t feel right. I want to be a cottagecore person. While looking for style inspiration, I ran into a German designer, ManjiPuh, whose styles are quite interesting with exposed seams, asymmetrical hemlines. Her styles are a departure from my normal styles. I chose the PUHzzle pullover and PUHzzle leggings with attached skirt

Because I had never made leggings, I started with those. I made the size 44 with a 3″ inseam and they were quite snug so I went up a size to a 46. The only alteration I did was to remove 4″ Because I had never made leggings, I started with those. I made the size 44 with a 3″ inseam and they were quite snug so I went up a size to a 46. The only alteration I did was to remove 4″ in length. I still need to take out another inch next time. After wearing all day, I have come to think that I either need to go down a size or use a fabric with a higher spandex content. I keep having to pull them up.

Next up, the top. One of the things that has changed is my willingness to fuss with fit. I did an initial muslin, saw that this top was drafted for a giant, bailed and regrouped. I pulled out my altered copy of the Audrey top by 5outof4 patterns and added the piecing lines from the PUHzzle pulli. I am not one for colorblocking, so the labeling, keeping track of pieces, assembly was all new to new but I love the aesthetic, so I stuck with it. The biggest learning curve was definitely learning how to adjust my serger. I’ve had multiple sergers over the years and if you had asked me last month, I would have said I was very comfortable with my serger. The reality is that despite owning sergers for 20 years, I don’t ever change the settings. I knew my machine could do a lettuce hem, I didn’t know how. It was much easier than I expected. The only problem is that the lettuce hem caused so much vibration that the stitch width lever (I think, can’t find the manual) broke. I was able to put it back to its standard settings, so it can be used for seam finishes, but I think I will have to get a new serger if I want to continue explore what it can do. Other than that, it went together very quickly in about 4 hours. And also, did you see that hood?

Brushing the Dust Off

Hi, world! With social media becoming a worse experience with each passing day, I decided to bail on Facebook and Instagram and join Mastodon. I left Twitter in 2009, so I wasn’t part of the big Twitter migration. My husband was already there and helped me sort things out. That’s great and all, but where do I put all my pattern notes, muslin thoughts so I can find them later? Oh, yeah, that’s what this blog was before Facebook.

Life for me has changed a lot since that last post. My kids are grown, so I will be exploring empty nest life. I have recovered my health, including putting my Type 2 diabetes in remission, with the whole foods, plant-based, no oil diet so I will be exploring wfpb/vegan food. With the diet, I have lost 80lbs. That means I need a whole new wardrobe. I no longer feel like myself in the whole vintage drag, so I will be exploring fashion to discover my new style. I’m still weighing Flickr vs Pixelfed. I’ll post it here when I decide. Thanks for reading!

Where to find me:

Mastodon: https//:artisan.chat/@kamikat (no food talk)

https:vegenx.social/@andrea (food only)

Podcast: https//:vegenx.com (wfpb with my husband, still pretty new)

Sew for Victory 2.0

Rochelle from http://luckylucille.com/ has announced Sew for Victory 2.0.  This is perfect timing, as last summer’s clothing doesn’t quite fit anymore.  I also just acquired a copy of Butterick 6701.

I’ll use this for 2 blouses and use Sewaholic’s Hollyburne for a black skirt to go with both. Hollyburne may not be a 40s skirt, but I think it’s the perfect A-line skirt and it has great pockets.

New and improved NL 6808

I guess the title us somewhat misleading.  I took my two favorite top patterns, Advance 7792 and New Look 6808, and combined them, then changed up the collar.  Instead of the bow on NL 6808’s collar, I added a tab and big button.  Pink, black, polka dots, giant button…what’s not to like!

Lots of catch up

I have a lot of projects I haven’t blogged.  The reality is that my computer is now slower than my phone but it is very cumbersome to blog on a phone.  My techie husband says that it is a bad idea to have a computer with a fan in a sewing room because the fan will pull in fibers and eventually cause it to overheat.  The flip side is that fanless computers are underpowered.  I’ll be getting some kind of new device for my birthday but I haven’t decided what will serve my needs best.  Until then, you can see a lot more of my projects on instagram.  My name there is kamikatdesigns.  Follow me and I’ll follow you.
The first outfit is a top from Advance 7792 in flannel shirting and the cigarette trousers with CUFFS! are a combo of Gertie’s Butterick capris and Burda 6981.  I have also made these in dark denim.  These two pair are the best fitting pants I have ever owned.  I’m glad that I was so determined to make my own 50s style jeans rather than pay for overpriced repro ones.

The next outfit is a dress I made to attend my brother-in-law’s wedding.  I used the bodice from Sewaholic Cambie dress and the Sewaholic Hollyburne skirt as the skirt.  It is a stretch poplin with silver threads that don’t photograph well.  I also made the bow headband, using instructions from Casey’s Elegant Musings.

Knit 4 Victory, sort of

Today is the last day for the Knit 4 Victory challenge.  I don’t think the project I’m sharing today qualifies for the challenge, as it is a modern, top-down raglan.  Extra points if you guessed it was another St. James sweater.  I really intended to knit up one of my many vintage patterns.  I started 2, with disasterous results.

My first project was a burgundy blouse with grey stripes and cute little bows on each stripe.  Not only did it come out too small, as result of knitting my gauge swatch flat and the blouse in-the-round, but I messed up my math and the sleeve cap came out way too small for the armscye.  I really wish I was better as rewritting patterns for size.

Project 2 was a black pullover with a pink yoke that had black intarsia bows.  I didn’t occur to me that the written intarsia would be a problem, with regards to changing their placement to fit my different gauge and upperchest measurement.  Last week, a knitter friend suggested that I make my own chart so it would be easier to visualize the placement.  After frogging and knitting the same 4 rows of intarsia a few times, hearing her tell me that made me want to cry.  Yes, I should have done that before casting on.  Now, it sits on my coffee table, taunting me.

So, after all the knitting failures, I decided to knit up something I know fits and is easy.  The yarn is Brava worsted, http://www.knitpicks.com/’s new 100% acrylic yarn.  As a wool allergic knitter, it’s hard to find high quality non-wool yarns in beautiful colors.  I usually stick to http://www.knitpicks.com/ Comfy line, which is 75% cotton/25% acrylic because it comes in a wide variety of weights and colors, but I fell in love with this lovely dark green color.  I bought this over the summer, but didn’t knit it because in the skein, the color isn’t nearly as pretty.  After knitting about an inch, the color really started to show.  For this version of St James, I went down a size, because of the recent weight loss and because this yarn is very stretchy.  I also decided to omit the ties at the neck for a more classic look.  Other than that, it fits great without changes to the pattern.

green St. James

SWAP top #2

So far, this SWAP has been much more enjoyable.  I guess when you only sew with patterns you love, you love everything you sew.

This is the first of what will be at least 2, maybe 3 versions of New Look 6808.  I’ve made several of these before so all I did was use a larger seam allowance at the side seams for my smaller size.

Simplicity 2154

What?  Another post so soon?  I think reading all the other vintage sewing bloggers write about their wardrobes has gotten me back in the grove.  I’ve come to terms with the reality of my winter uniform habits.  I think this is the first time I’ve made a decision to sew only warm tops and long pants.  I’m just too cold for cotton dresses in winter. 

Here is the first top of my winter SWAP.  I’ve made several sleeveless versions of Simplicity 2154 and love them.  For winter, I used flannel and added a 3/4 sleeve.  I rarely wear solid white, as I am a clumsy cook and eater, but this will be versatile under all my cardis. 

SWAP pants, maybe

My original plans for today’s project was a 1960s style cigarette pant.  I used Butterick 5895 as the base.  I love how Gertie’s capris fit, but they are way too short for winter.  From the knee down, I used view B from Burda 6981.  I love the look of cuffs, but I didn’t follow the folding directions on my muslin.  My muslin came out hitting right at the ankle bone, perfect for winter.  The finished trouser is a few inches shorter.  They will be fine in Spring but for now, back to the drawing board for winter pants.

Winter SWAP

SWAP stands for Sewing With a Plan and is basically a capsule wardrobe.  I have tried to do a SWAP in the past but, due to poor choices, have never seen the plan through.  The first time, I used a color combination that I never wear.  I got it in my head that as a 35 year old woman, I needed to move away from an all black wardrobe.  Why, oh why did I choose brown?  The second time, I chose patterns that were unflattering.  No, mid-30s fashions are not my friend.

This time around, I am going to use fabrics from my stash and TnT patterns.  I looked through my stash and found that I have unconsciously bought fabrics in white, pink and black.  The solid white, white and pink pin dots and plaid fabrics are all flannel.  The top fabric is the rayon jersey that I used for my Jalie sweetheart top.  I am going to consider that top as part of the SWAP.  On top, is New Look 6808, my favorite modern top pattern.  I already know this pattern looks great with a long sleeve and in flannel.  I haven’t decided if this is the only pattern I’ll be using.  I haven’t decided on bottom garments, yet.