Sew for Victory 2.0

Rochelle from has announced Sew for Victory 2.0.  This is perfect timing, as last summer’s clothing doesn’t quite fit anymore.  I also just acquired a copy of Butterick 6701.


I’ll use this for 2 blouses and use Sewaholic’s Hollyburne for a black skirt to go with both. Hollyburne may not be a 40s skirt, but I think it’s the perfect A-line skirt and it has great pockets.


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New and improved NL 6808

I guess the title us somewhat misleading.  I took my two favorite top patterns, Advance 7792 and New Look 6808, and combined them, then changed up the collar.  Instead of the bow on NL 6808’s collar, I added a tab and big button.  Pink, black, polka dots, giant button…what’s not to like!


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Lots of catch up

I have a lot of projects I haven’t blogged.  The reality is that my computer is now slower than my phone but it is very cumbersome to blog on a phone.  My techie husband says that it is a bad idea to have a computer with a fan in a sewing room because the fan will pull in fibers and eventually cause it to overheat.  The flip side is that fanless computers are underpowered.  I’ll be getting some kind of new device for my birthday but I haven’t decided what will serve my needs best.  Until then, you can see a lot more of my projects on instagram.  My name there is kamikatdesigns.  Follow me and I’ll follow you.
The first outfit is a top from Advance 7792 in flannel shirting and the cigarette trousers with CUFFS! are a combo of Gertie’s Butterick capris and Burda 6981.  I have also made these in dark denim.  These two pair are the best fitting pants I have ever owned.  I’m glad that I was so determined to make my own 50s style jeans rather than pay for overpriced repro ones.


The next outfit is a dress I made to attend my brother-in-law’s wedding.  I used the bodice from Sewaholic Cambie dress and the Sewaholic Hollyburne skirt as the skirt.  It is a stretch poplin with silver threads that don’t photograph well.  I also made the bow headband, using instructions from Casey’s Elegant Musings.


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Knit 4 Victory, sort of

Today is the last day for the Knit 4 Victory challenge.  I don’t think the project I’m sharing today qualifies for the challenge, as it is a modern, top-down raglan.  Extra points if you guessed it was another St. James sweater.  I really intended to knit up one of my many vintage patterns.  I started 2, with disasterous results.

My first project was a burgundy blouse with grey stripes and cute little bows on each stripe.  Not only did it come out too small, as result of knitting my gauge swatch flat and the blouse in-the-round, but I messed up my math and the sleeve cap came out way too small for the armscye.  I really wish I was better as rewritting patterns for size.

Project 2 was a black pullover with a pink yoke that had black intarsia bows.  I didn’t occur to me that the written intarsia would be a problem, with regards to changing their placement to fit my different gauge and upperchest measurement.  Last week, a knitter friend suggested that I make my own chart so it would be easier to visualize the placement.  After frogging and knitting the same 4 rows of intarsia a few times, hearing her tell me that made me want to cry.  Yes, I should have done that before casting on.  Now, it sits on my coffee table, taunting me.

So, after all the knitting failures, I decided to knit up something I know fits and is easy.  The yarn is Brava worsted,’s new 100% acrylic yarn.  As a wool allergic knitter, it’s hard to find high quality non-wool yarns in beautiful colors.  I usually stick to Comfy line, which is 75% cotton/25% acrylic because it comes in a wide variety of weights and colors, but I fell in love with this lovely dark green color.  I bought this over the summer, but didn’t knit it because in the skein, the color isn’t nearly as pretty.  After knitting about an inch, the color really started to show.  For this version of St James, I went down a size, because of the recent weight loss and because this yarn is very stretchy.  I also decided to omit the ties at the neck for a more classic look.  Other than that, it fits great without changes to the pattern.

green St. James

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SWAP top #2

So far, this SWAP has been much more enjoyable.  I guess when you only sew with patterns you love, you love everything you sew.

This is the first of what will be at least 2, maybe 3 versions of New Look 6808.  I’ve made several of these before so all I did was use a larger seam allowance at the side seams for my smaller size.

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Simplicity 2154

What?  Another post so soon?  I think reading all the other vintage sewing bloggers write about their wardrobes has gotten me back in the grove.  I’ve come to terms with the reality of my winter uniform habits.  I think this is the first time I’ve made a decision to sew only warm tops and long pants.  I’m just too cold for cotton dresses in winter. 

Here is the first top of my winter SWAP.  I’ve made several sleeveless versions of Simplicity 2154 and love them.  For winter, I used flannel and added a 3/4 sleeve.  I rarely wear solid white, as I am a clumsy cook and eater, but this will be versatile under all my cardis. 

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SWAP pants, maybe

My original plans for today’s project was a 1960s style cigarette pant.  I used Butterick 5895 as the base.  I love how Gertie’s capris fit, but they are way too short for winter.  From the knee down, I used view B from Burda 6981.  I love the look of cuffs, but I didn’t follow the folding directions on my muslin.  My muslin came out hitting right at the ankle bone, perfect for winter.  The finished trouser is a few inches shorter.  They will be fine in Spring but for now, back to the drawing board for winter pants.

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Winter SWAP

SWAP stands for Sewing With a Plan and is basically a capsule wardrobe.  I have tried to do a SWAP in the past but, due to poor choices, have never seen the plan through.  The first time, I used a color combination that I never wear.  I got it in my head that as a 35 year old woman, I needed to move away from an all black wardrobe.  Why, oh why did I choose brown?  The second time, I chose patterns that were unflattering.  No, mid-30s fashions are not my friend.

This time around, I am going to use fabrics from my stash and TnT patterns.  I looked through my stash and found that I have unconsciously bought fabrics in white, pink and black.  The solid white, white and pink pin dots and plaid fabrics are all flannel.  The top fabric is the rayon jersey that I used for my Jalie sweetheart top.  I am going to consider that top as part of the SWAP.  On top, is New Look 6808, my favorite modern top pattern.  I already know this pattern looks great with a long sleeve and in flannel.  I haven’t decided if this is the only pattern I’ll be using.  I haven’t decided on bottom garments, yet.

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Jalie Sweetheart Top

Yes, I finally got back in my sewing room.  I always get the sewing blues in winter, but dieting has compounded that.  I don’t want to spend a lot of time of something that won’t fit for long.  However, I’ve gotten to the point where none of my fitted garments fit any more.  I plan to sew some basics out of my stash to get me to my next size.

So, here is the first of such projects: the sweetheart top from Jalie.  I tried going down 1 size from my previous muslin of this top, but I think it needs more tweaks.  I would prefer a shorter hem and a trimmer waist.  While I really like the design, I’m glad I didn’t cut out several at once.  After trimming the waist and hem, it will be ready for assembly line sewing.  Sorry for the phone picture.  My New Year’s resolution is to get a tripod for my regular camera.

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Knit for Victory Progress

I decided to try my hand at converting a vintage pattern to knitting in the round.  I’m so glad I did because it made the knitting go much faster.  I think the body  took me 3 weeks to knit.  Best of all, minimal sewing!

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