Making New into Old
Since I sprained my ankle this week, sewing, and everything else, is taking longer than usual. I’m making progress but not enough to post this week. I though I’d take this time to write about the idea of making new patterns look like old garments.
There are many reasons why a sewist might want to make a new pattern fit like an old garment. It’s hard to find patterns in certain sizes. Sometimes patterns go for much higher on eBay than you’re willing to pay. Sometimes newer sewists are hesitant to work with vintage patterns, especially unprinted patterns. The best way to alter current patterns to feel like vintage ones is to study vintage ones. If you don’t have any, it’s best to get one or two inexpensive ones. It doesn’t matter if they are your size. You need to compare them to a modern pattern of a similar garment. For instance, if the vintage pattern is a classic button-front blouse, compare it to a current classic fitted blouse of the same size. Because vintage garments are fitted closer to the body, you need to stick to more fitted current patterns. It will be very difficult to make a loose fitting blouse with 5-6in of ease into a vintage-looking blouse. Generally speaking, a vintage pattern will have more darts, deeper darts, a higher armscye and a darted sleeve. Sometimes, all it takes of make a current pattern into a vintage styled garment is adding these elements.
One of the key differences between current and vintage patterns is that 1950’s patterns are drafted for a larger difference between bust, waist and hip. This means that a FBA is already drafted into the pattern. For a current pattern, this means adding a FBA. However, instead of leaving the extra ease through the tummy like modern sewing books recommend, a vintage garment would have that extra ease taken up with a larger or secondary dart through the tummy. For an example, take a look at New Look 6808. This is a current pattern that can be purchased at any Hancock’s or JoAnn’s and probably any store that carries Simplicity patterns, as they are owned by the same company. As you can see from the instruction sheet, this top has only a single vertical waist dart. You can see in my muslin that I have done a 1in FBA and added a second vertical waist dart to take up the ease through the waist area. The end result is a top that just barely skims the torso, like a vintage garment. I hope to be able to post pictures of the finish garment soon.
What I’m working on this week
This is what I feel is an example of “new vintage”. It’s a modern pattern that has a retro feel to it. This might be an option for a sewer who isn’t comfortable with vintage patterns. The views with the scoop neck don’t really look vintage and the view with pockets doesn’t either, but the collar sure does. I’ve become a bit obsessed with this kind of collar lately. I love it, but I think it might be a bit over the top. This is just the muslin, as I just can’t wear that color red. I’m going to take a couple days to think about the collar before cutting into my fashion fabric. The pattern is New Look 6909.
I also want to show off this pattern. I have wanted to make some vintage styled jeans for quite a while but have been hesitant to grade up trouser patterns. I managed to find one in my size. I am concerned that they will look like “mom jeans” but I hope with the right top they will just look vintage,
just a quick note
Yes, I’m sewing this week, but not for myself. This week is all about Halloween sewing for the kids. I’m way behind, but I hope to post pictures as soon as the costume are done.
International Wear a Dress Day
Erin over at http://www.dressaday.com/ has proposed Oct. 29 as this year’s IWaDD. Visit her blog for more information. I plan on making a warm dress for the date and I hope to post a picture of my participation in IWaDD. I hope you’ll join me!
Amazing Fit: as advertised!
Simplicity has a relatively new line of skirt and trouser patterns called “Amazing Fit”. Each pattern comes with different pattern pieces for slim, average and curvy fit. So far, I have tried 2 different trouser patterns and they fit very well out of the envelope with very few fitting tweaks needed. I now feel pretty confident that the other Amazinf Fit patterns will fit as well. These trousers are Simplicity 2860, the straight leg trouser. This pattern has two major detractors that should be pointed out. I tried making the fly as drafted several times but never figured it out. I ended up adding a faux fly, based on a different pattern. The other detractor is that there are no pockets. However, now that I have the fit perfected, adding a slash pocket shouldn’t be too difficult to add. I highly recommend Simplicity 2860 to anyone new to trouser making or has trouble getting trousers to fit.
KwikSew 3494
This post is mainly about the skirt because I think I’ve talked about the top before. I know I made it at the end of last spring but haven’t worn it because I had nothing that went with it. Now I have the right skirt! This skirt seems to be the Holy Grail of skirts, at least for me. On The Fedora Lounge, there have been discussions about age, skirts, and winter wardrobes. The conclusion is that women need to move toward a slimmer skirt as we age so we don’t look like “mutton dressed as lamb”. I’m not sure I agree with this, but I have mentioned that I think a full skirted dress tends to look frumpy when you add a long sleeve. So, my quandry was this: how do I maintain an elegant, age-appropriate vintage look when I don’t really live a suit/wiggle dress lifestyle? Living in wool pencil skirts and suits all winter is easy to do when you work in an office or shop but not so practicle if your home is your workplace. It’s not very easy to sit on the floor to play with small children or scrub bathtubs in a pencil skirt. This skirt might be just the thing for a glamorous stay-at-home mom. It reminds of the mullet: business in front, party in the back. This skirt is a pencil skirt in front, flared skirt in back. I was even able to walk the dogs in comfortable, normal strides. I think this may be my “it” skirt for the winter. Now, I just need to find/make some vintage or vintage influenced tops.
A Couple Winter pieces
The skirt is New Look 6569, which is now a TnT pattern for me. I love that the pleats are only in the center, to give fullness without adding bulk to the hips. This one is my fourth skirt from the pattern and works just as well in a cotton corduroy as a light weight calico. The top is KwikSew 3263 in a cotton interlock. The finished measurements had several inches of negative ease, so I added an inch to the side seams. I ended up trimming that off and it still could use some trimming under the arm. I really like this pattern for a basic tee with a twist. The only thing I don’t like about this pattern is that the neckline is not as wide as the pattern illustration. I will probably make this again, though.
How cute is this little bow?!?! My favorite thing about this pattern!
A lot of Sewing, With Nothing to Show for It
I was hoping I’d have something to share with y’all this week. I’ve been doing a TON of muslins, mainly trousers.
I started off with Burda 7669. This trouser has the cut of leg that I’m looking for, snug through the hip, straight from knee down. The main problem with it is the VERY low rise. The pattern called for a 4in zip. They don’t even sell 4in zips. I know that lower rise trousers are the current style, but I can’t stand them. I prefer the waist to hit my waist or above. Higher rise trousers are more flattering, if you have some extra weight because it helps keep the belly flatter, while a low rise lets the flab hang out and you get the dreaded muffin top. I raised the waist about 2in. They looked great from the front, but I really struggled with getting the center back seam to follow the curve of my lower back. After 2 muslins, I moved on to a dark stretch denim. I spent a lot of time on these, top stitched everything, flat felled seam on inseam and outer seam. They came out at least a size too big. Yeah, you need to make them smaller when you a stretch fabric. I took in the muslin then made them up in a black twill, no stretch. Yup, those were too small. I gave up on the Burda and moved on to the new Amazing Fit wide leg trousers from Simplicity. These fit perfectly right out of the envelope. However, the leg wasn’t just wide, it was HUGE. They also have a straight leg in the Amazing Fit line. I would like to try those.
Then, I worked on dress muslins. Two vintage patterns, one modern. Here’s what I learned: 1950’s dresses look frumpy and matronly as soon as you add a long sleeve. It makes sense, I guess. Fifties dresses have a long, full skirt and a higher neckline than most modern dresses. What saves them from being frumpy is a short cap sleeve or no sleeve. You’re not totally covered up. The minute you add a sleeve, Polygamy Ranch! I spent some time looking through the modern pattern websites to see what they have and the only long sleeved dresses I found all have straight skirts. Yes, they are pretty but not practical for a stay-at-home mom. Same with suits. I just don’t live a suit lifestyle. I have found a couple patterns that might work. A dress/jacket combo like Vogue 8472 would give the warmth of a jacket with a fuller skirt. As long as the jacket was washable, it would fit my lifestyle.
Simplicity 3673, worn as a jumper/pinafore. The problem is that this dress can look too little girlish if the right fabrics aren’t used. It would have to be in men’s suitings, pinstripes, houndstooth, glen plaid, ect.
The other project I’ve been working on is the great bra fitting excapade. I bought a new pattern, the Bravo Bra 2 from Needle Nook Fabrics. The owner of Needle Nook Fabrics is Anne St. Clair and she has been so helpful with every aspect of this process. I knew fitting the pattern would be a long and tedious process, but once it’s done, each bra will take only 1-2 hours to make.
McCall’s 3988
Ah, back to vintage sewing. I think now that we’ve settled into the back-to-school routine, I should be able to spend more time on complicated projects. McCall’s 3988 is one of my favorite patterns in my collection. The button band was quite complicated, so I ended up leaving it off. Other than that, it’s a very straight forward sew. I do plan on sewing it again. Next, I want to try the slim skirted version, then I will use a circle skirt instead of the dirndle skirt. I don’t need any extra fabric on my waist or hips! As an aside, this spring, I stopped dyeing my hair. This is the first picture that seems to show more gray than dyed hair. I’m really happy to see the progress.
Another Pattern Sale
I have come to the conclusion that my figure type isn’t suited to 1930’s and 1940’s fashions. Therefore, I’m selling off my 30s and 40s patterns. Some have already been called for, they have “on Hold” in their descriptions. They are $10 each, free shipping within the US. Ask me about international shipping. Send me a message through flickr, patternreview.com or Facebook mail if you are interested.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12275674@N08/sets/72157617044503561/
