Simplicity 4920
This is an early 1960’s Simplicity pattern, which is a good example of the transition from the New Look 1950s styles and the mod styles of the mid-to-late 1960s. This dress is ends my relationship with linen. Back when I was involved in historical reenacting, I sewing with linen and wool exclusively. However, it just doesn’t work for 1950’s, early 60’s fitted garments. The muslin of this dress was much more fitted and showed off my waist much better. In linen, it just sorts of sags. However, linen is ideal in hot, humid D.C. summers. I love the pleats and the bow and plan on making this in a stiff, woven cotton.
KwikSew 3485
This is my husband’s Father’s Day present. He really likes retro bowling shirts, like DaVinci and Steady. However, most of those shirts are a heavy polyester, not the best thing for hot and humid D.C. summers. I hope a cotton version of his favorite style will prove to be more comfortable. This pattern, like most KwikSew patterns, was a straightforward sew with great directions. I could see making many more of this pattern.
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Butterick 4443
I know many of you have already seen this dress, but I’ve decided to go to a more regular schedule, posting every Sunday or Monday.
Today’s post illustrates 2 points about modern sewing. The first is that it’s possible to get a vintage look with modern patterns. This is important for newer sewists who might be hesitant to try unprinted patterns or grading to their size. Another plus with Butterick 4443 is that it takes significantly less fabric than the average 1950’s pattern, just 2 yards of fasjion fabric and 1 of lining. The average full skirted dress in my collection calls for 4 yards of fabric. This makes Butterick 4443 an affordable alternative to actual vintage patterns.
The second point is about fit. I get many comments on the fit of my vintage garments. This is because I start with a pattern that fits through the shoulders and neckline, then grade up only where I need more room. This should also be done with modern patterns. Most modern Big 4 patterns are drafted for a B-C cup bra. If you are larger than that, you need to use you high bust (measure just under your armpits) measurement to choose your pattern. This could be 1-3 sizes smaller than what’s recommended on the back of the pattern envelope. If the finished measurement printed on the pattern paper isn’t enough room, you then need to do a FBA (full bust aadjustment). http://www.timmelfabrics.com/fullbustalteration.htm is a good article on how to do it. The photos below illustrate the difference between choosing the size listed on the back and choosing the size based on high bust, with a FBA. They are both Butterick 4443, the only design element changes are the neckline and inseam pockets on the second dress.
Butterick 7785
This is what we call a “wearable muslin”. That means that it’s cheap tester fabric that you don’t mind wearing if it turns out right or tossing if it’s a wadder. This dress is also an example of why it’s important to do a muslin. The pattern is a size 12, 30in bust. These small patterns take alot of care when being sized up. I did a muslin of the bodice, tweaked it here and there, then made the dress. I was really unhappy with this dress and the fact that, even disregarding the lack of cumerbund, it looks nothing like the original. After a test-wearing yesterday and some pinning, I determined that I need to take 1-2inches off each side seam in order for it to fit like a true 50’s dress. My numbers were right, how did my grading turn out so off? I hadn’t measured myself in nearly a month. While I jump on the scale daily, I don’t often measure myself. Since my back has healed enough to get back to an easy exercise program, I’ve lost 2 inches off my waist. That’s not alot in modern clothing, but a big deal in 50’s clothing. Remember ladies, even if you think you’re exactly the same, measure yourself before the start of each project.
Something different
This outfit shows why I am thinking about changing my blog. Yes, I love vintage patterns, but not everything I sew is vintage. It is possible to find stylish, flattering modern patterns that aren’t for teenage girls or make one look pregnant. The added bonus of working with modern patterns is that it makes it easier to work with the new fabrics that keep hitting the market. Another reason to keep working with modern patterns is that sometimes you just need to look nice, but not draw attention. The vintage garments always draw attention and not all of it positive. The question, dear readers, is this: should I change the blog name and address to allow modern and vintage projects or keep the blog as is, with the occasional modern project?
The top is Butterick 4986 in matte jersey and the skirt is Kwik Sew 3287 in cotton calico
WiFD: Thursday
I have decided that this is my new favorite pattern. One of the goals of my never ending eBay searching is to find a nice, basic dress that I can make up a dozen for everyday wear. This one comes pretty close. The only drawback of this dress is that it takes 5yrds of fabric. I have another dress coming any day, but if that one doesn’t work out as well, this will be THE dress.
WiFD: Wednesday
This is very typical of how I wear my vintage garments. The top is just a plain white tee from Old Navy. The skirt is a cotton sateen from a 1940’s pattern. You can’t seem them in this picture, but I’m also wearing my vintage repro Re-Mix 1940’s wedge sandals.
WiFD: Tuesday
Today was a school library volunteer day and the first time I’ve worn a skirt to work in the library. I think library days need either pants or longer skirts. I had to be careful of how I moved so I wouldn’t flash the kids. This outfit is a good example of how to integrate vintage pieces into a modern wardrobe. The top is made from a vintage pattern, but the skirt is from Target. I also frequently wear this top with jeans.
A Week in Feminine Dress
Over at http://forums.sensibility.com, the ladies usually do a seasonal “Week in Feminine Dress”. This is to encourage and inspire each other to dress like ladies all the time, not just for special occasions. I thought that this Spring’s WiFD would be a good opportunity to show how I wear my creations on a daily basis. I am frequently asked if I wear my vintage items to dances or car shows or even just “do you actually wear that?”. Yes, I do. I don’t always wear them with my hair and make-up done, or sometimes with very modern shoes. Sometimes I even mix modern and vintage.
Today’s outfit is a modern New Look dress with a cardigan.
Hollywood 1059
Hollywood 1059 took a lot of work. To start with, it’s sized for a 34bust. This was another big grade up. Then, because of the front center pleats. doing a FBA and low bust adjustment were difficult. I had lots of difficulty applying the piping to the neckline because of the front center point. I’m still not quite sure about this dress. While I really like wartime hair and shoes, I just don’t think it suits me as well as the 50s styles. The 50’s styles suit me whether I’m slim or with some extra weight. This goes back to my post about picking styles. Your body type doesn’t change much with weight, but when you have some extra weight, working WITH your type is even more important. This dress goes against my type.
