I was hoping I’d have something to share with y’all this week. I’ve been doing a TON of muslins, mainly trousers.
I started off with Burda 7669. This trouser has the cut of leg that I’m looking for, snug through the hip, straight from knee down. The main problem with it is the VERY low rise. The pattern called for a 4in zip. They don’t even sell 4in zips. I know that lower rise trousers are the current style, but I can’t stand them. I prefer the waist to hit my waist or above. Higher rise trousers are more flattering, if you have some extra weight because it helps keep the belly flatter, while a low rise lets the flab hang out and you get the dreaded muffin top. I raised the waist about 2in. They looked great from the front, but I really struggled with getting the center back seam to follow the curve of my lower back. After 2 muslins, I moved on to a dark stretch denim. I spent a lot of time on these, top stitched everything, flat felled seam on inseam and outer seam. They came out at least a size too big. Yeah, you need to make them smaller when you a stretch fabric. I took in the muslin then made them up in a black twill, no stretch. Yup, those were too small. I gave up on the Burda and moved on to the new Amazing Fit wide leg trousers from Simplicity. These fit perfectly right out of the envelope. However, the leg wasn’t just wide, it was HUGE. They also have a straight leg in the Amazing Fit line. I would like to try those.
Then, I worked on dress muslins. Two vintage patterns, one modern. Here’s what I learned: 1950’s dresses look frumpy and matronly as soon as you add a long sleeve. It makes sense, I guess. Fifties dresses have a long, full skirt and a higher neckline than most modern dresses. What saves them from being frumpy is a short cap sleeve or no sleeve. You’re not totally covered up. The minute you add a sleeve, Polygamy Ranch! I spent some time looking through the modern pattern websites to see what they have and the only long sleeved dresses I found all have straight skirts. Yes, they are pretty but not practical for a stay-at-home mom. Same with suits. I just don’t live a suit lifestyle. I have found a couple patterns that might work. A dress/jacket combo like Vogue 8472 would give the warmth of a jacket with a fuller skirt. As long as the jacket was washable, it would fit my lifestyle.
Simplicity 3673, worn as a jumper/pinafore. The problem is that this dress can look too little girlish if the right fabrics aren’t used. It would have to be in men’s suitings, pinstripes, houndstooth, glen plaid, ect.
The other project I’ve been working on is the great bra fitting excapade. I bought a new pattern, the Bravo Bra 2 from Needle Nook Fabrics. The owner of Needle Nook Fabrics is Anne St. Clair and she has been so helpful with every aspect of this process. I knew fitting the pattern would be a long and tedious process, but once it’s done, each bra will take only 1-2 hours to make.