Here’s my patternreview.com review for McCall’s 5825.  It’s a current release but the envelope art suggests it’s a vintage reprint.

Pattern Description: misses aprons

Pattern Sizing:S-L

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Very easy to follow
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?I like the retro feel of the design

Fabric Used: calico from Hancock’s

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I used a straight size L, which was recommended for 16-18. I normally use a 16 for my shoulder/neckline area and 22 at the side seams. The straps were long enough to go around me with plenty of room for a bow. Also, since this is a one-way print, I ended up having to piece the straps.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I will sew it again and yes I would recommend it to others.

Conclusion:
I love this apron!

Here are the cigarette trousers.  I’m still not sure how I feel about them.  This particular pair are wadders because I forgot the lessons learned about stretch denim.  After an hour’s wear, they are way too baggy.  If I decide the look is ok for me, I will make another denim pair, as well as other fabrics.  I kinda feel like they look like “mom jeans” not cool, retro jeans.  Now, here’s the good: they fit almost perfectly right out of the envelope.  The only thing I altered was leg length.  Even if I don’t keep the tapered leg, I will use the upper part as the basis of a TNT trouser pattern.

I’ve put aside the coat for a bit.  I think I need to read up on tailoring some more.  Here’s what I’m currently working on:

I tried adding a long sleeve to view 3.  I think this is part of my issue with winter vintage outfits.  The kimono/cut-on sleeve doesn’t work for me in a long sleeve.

Then, I tried cutting a separate armscye and sleeve.

At this point, I’m not sure which is best.  The kimono sleeve has more room for movement but I’m not sure I like the look of extra fabric at the armpit. Any thoughts?

This is the first muslin for the coat from New Look 6736.  So far, I’ve cut a size 16 for the collar/neckline/shoulder area, then graded up to a 22 at the side seams.  I added a 1/2in FBA.  I also took a 1/2in petite fold just above the waist and a 1/4in horizontal fold between the bust and shoulder.  I lowered the bust, but clearly need to lower is some more.  I need to get some shoulder pads before trying it on.

Here is the completed top from last week’s muslin, New Look 6808.  As you can see, the FBA and added vertical waist dart has given it a more fitted appearance than the pattern model leads you to believe.  I also like the added touch of the collar and bow, lending a vintage-inspired touch.

Since I sprained my ankle this week, sewing, and everything else, is taking longer than usual.  I’m making progress but not enough to post this week.  I though I’d take this time to write about the idea of making new patterns look like old garments.

There are many reasons why a sewist might want to make a new pattern fit like an old garment.  It’s hard to find patterns in certain sizes.  Sometimes patterns go for much higher on eBay than you’re willing to pay.  Sometimes newer sewists are hesitant to work with vintage patterns, especially unprinted patterns.  The best way to alter current patterns to feel like vintage ones is to study vintage ones.  If you don’t have any, it’s best to get one or two inexpensive ones.  It doesn’t matter if they are your size.  You need to compare them to a modern pattern of a similar garment.  For instance, if the vintage pattern is a classic button-front blouse, compare it to a current classic fitted blouse of the same size.  Because vintage garments are fitted closer to the body, you need to stick to more fitted current patterns.  It will be very difficult to make a loose fitting blouse with 5-6in of ease into a vintage-looking blouse.   Generally speaking, a vintage pattern will have more darts, deeper darts, a higher armscye and a darted sleeve.  Sometimes, all it takes of make a current pattern into a vintage styled garment is adding these elements.

One of the key differences between current and vintage patterns is that 1950’s patterns are drafted for a larger difference between bust, waist and hip.  This means that a FBA is already drafted into the pattern.  For a current pattern, this means adding a FBA.  However, instead of leaving the extra ease through the tummy like modern sewing books recommend, a vintage garment would have that extra ease taken up with a larger or secondary dart through the tummy.  For an example, take a look at New Look 6808.  This is a current pattern that can be purchased at any Hancock’s or JoAnn’s and probably any store that carries Simplicity patterns, as they are owned by the same company.  As you can see from the instruction sheet, this top has only a single vertical waist dart.  You can see in my muslin that I have done a 1in FBA and added a second vertical waist dart to take up the ease through the waist area.  The end result is a top that just barely skims the torso, like a vintage garment.  I hope to be able to post pictures of the finish garment soon.

This is what I feel is an example of “new vintage”.  It’s a modern pattern that has a retro feel to it.  This might be an option for a sewer who isn’t comfortable with vintage patterns.  The views with the scoop neck don’t really look vintage and the view with pockets doesn’t either, but the collar sure does.  I’ve become a bit obsessed with this kind of collar lately.  I love it, but I think it might be a bit over the top.  This is just the muslin, as I just can’t wear that color red.  I’m going to take a couple days to think about the collar before cutting into my fashion fabric.  The pattern is New Look 6909.

I also want to show off this pattern.  I have wanted to make some vintage styled jeans for quite a while but have been hesitant to grade up trouser patterns.  I managed to find one in my size. I am concerned that they will look like “mom jeans” but I hope with the right top they will just look vintage,

Yes, I’m sewing this week, but not for myself.  This week is all about Halloween sewing for the kids.  I’m way behind, but I hope to post pictures as soon as the costume are done.

Erin over at http://www.dressaday.com/ has proposed Oct. 29 as this year’s IWaDD.  Visit her blog for more information.  I plan on making a warm dress for the date and I hope to post a picture of my participation in IWaDD.  I hope you’ll join me!

Simplicity has a relatively new line of  skirt and trouser patterns called “Amazing Fit”.   Each pattern comes with different pattern pieces for slim, average and curvy fit.  So far, I have tried 2 different trouser patterns and they fit very well out of the envelope with very few fitting tweaks needed.  I now feel pretty confident that the other Amazinf Fit patterns will fit as well.  These trousers are Simplicity 2860, the straight leg trouser.  This pattern has two major detractors that should be pointed out.  I tried making the fly as drafted several times but never figured it out.  I ended up adding a faux fly, based on a different pattern.  The other detractor is that there are no pockets.  However, now that I have the fit perfected, adding a slash pocket shouldn’t be too difficult to add.    I highly recommend Simplicity 2860 to anyone new to trouser making or has trouble getting trousers to fit.