The New Vintage Wardrobe

Simplicity has a relatively new line of  skirt and trouser patterns called “Amazing Fit”.   Each pattern comes with different pattern pieces for slim, average and curvy fit.  So far, I have tried 2 different trouser patterns and they fit very well out of the envelope with very few fitting tweaks needed.  I now feel pretty confident that the other Amazinf Fit patterns will fit as well.  These trousers are Simplicity 2860, the straight leg trouser.  This pattern has two major detractors that should be pointed out.  I tried making the fly as drafted several times but never figured it out.  I ended up adding a faux fly, based on a different pattern.  The other detractor is that there are no pockets.  However, now that I have the fit perfected, adding a slash pocket shouldn’t be too difficult to add.    I highly recommend Simplicity 2860 to anyone new to trouser making or has trouble getting trousers to fit.

This post is mainly about the skirt because I think I’ve talked about the top before.  I know I made it at the end of last spring but haven’t worn it because I had nothing that went with it.  Now I have the right skirt!  This skirt seems to be the Holy Grail of skirts, at least for me.  On The Fedora Lounge, there have been discussions about age, skirts, and winter wardrobes.  The conclusion is that women need to move toward a slimmer skirt as we age so we don’t look like “mutton dressed as lamb”.  I’m not sure I agree with this, but I have mentioned that I think a full skirted dress tends to look frumpy when you add a long sleeve.  So, my quandry was this: how do I maintain an elegant, age-appropriate vintage look when I don’t really live a suit/wiggle dress lifestyle?  Living in wool pencil skirts and suits all winter is easy to do when  you work in an office or shop but not so practicle if your home is your workplace.  It’s not very easy to sit on the floor to play with small children or scrub bathtubs in a pencil skirt.  This skirt might be just the thing for a glamorous stay-at-home mom.  It reminds of the mullet: business in front, party in the back.  This skirt is a pencil skirt in front, flared skirt in back.  I was even able to walk the dogs in comfortable, normal strides.  I think this may be my “it” skirt for the winter.  Now, I just need to find/make some vintage or vintage influenced tops.

The skirt is New Look 6569, which is now a TnT pattern for me.  I love that the pleats are only in the center, to give fullness without adding bulk to the hips.  This one is my fourth skirt from the pattern and works just as well in a cotton corduroy as a light weight calico.  The top is KwikSew 3263 in a cotton interlock.  The finished measurements had several inches of negative ease, so I added an inch to the side seams.  I ended up trimming that off and it still could use some trimming under the arm.  I really like this pattern for a basic tee with a twist.  The only thing I don’t like about this pattern is that the neckline is not as wide as the pattern illustration.  I will probably make this again, though.

How cute is this little bow?!?!  My favorite thing about this pattern!

This week, I’ve been working on tops.  The first is Vogue 8546, which I started last week.  I was really attracted to the interesting keyhole neckline but it turns out to be it’s only flaw.  The corners don’t lie flat against my chest and I think that makes it look homemade.  However, the bodice is a great fit and I plan to try it with a different neckline.  My full review is at http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/readreview.pl?readreview=1&reviewnum=43409

The other top is Simplcity 2501.  I thought the waistband and peplum would give a nice vintage-feel, but instead it cuts me off at the middle.  This pattern has separate cutting lines for B,C,D cup, so it eliminates the need for a FBA.  I may try the views without the waistband, since it fits so well otherwise.

Both of these patterns are current releases.

TNT stands for Tried ‘N True.  Most sewers have a handful of TNT patterns that they go back to time and time again.  I have a good dress pattern, that while a very unique style, fits like a dream and I’ve made a couple this summer.  I have a good shorts pattern that I made a few of this summer.  I have a FABULOUS skirt pattern that I need to make in some winter fabrics.  What I don’t have is a solid, well fitting button-down blouse pattern and a basic knit top pattern.  This week, I’ve been working on the knit top.  I’ve started with Vogue 8546, which is a current release, not vintage.  This pattern has some lovely basics that could be the foundation of a good wardrobe if you’re into modern fashions.  However, the top is killing me!  I basted the muslin and tried it on without the sleeves.  It fit perfectly with just some petite alterations for my short stature.  It needed no FBA.  Then I added the sleeve.  Whoa, Nelly!  That changed the whole look.  The sleeve cap is very narrow, more like what is common on a classic woven blouse.  It also has an elbow dart, which is totally unnecessary in a knit sleeve.   My first change was to cut a new sleeve, using a different pattern.  This helped somewhat, but it still pulls the shoulder seam off the top of the shoulder.  Part of me thinks I may need to start all over with a smaller size for the upperchest/shoulder/neckline area.  Here’s the problem: this pattern comes in 8-14 and 16-22.  I’m already using the 16 for the upperchest area.  I need a larger size for the rest.  I would have to buy another copy of the pattern to get the 14, then merge the 14 with the larger pattern.  It might be worth it.  This top has the potential to become my TNT knit top.  Vogue patterns go on sale next week, so I will put it aside to think about the issues until then.

Top without sleeve

Top with sleeve

I haven’t done a whole lot of sewing lately, which is why I didn’t post last week.  This week’s garment is New Look 6569.  It’s a current release and I believe a Spring 2009 design.  It is of a cotton stretch poplin.  The pleats were somewhat time consuming, but the end result is a pretty, lightweight wardrobe basic.  Every girl needs a black cotton skirt.

The other project that I have been working is sewing my own bras, which there won’t be picctures of.  I’ve tried to make my own in the past with not very good luck.  Since becoming active on www.patternreview.com, I found a great European pattern (http://www.elingeria.de/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21_59_23&products_id=4676) that has gotten great reviews.  The instructions are in Dutch, so it helps if you have already made a bra before attempting this one.  Fitting the bra pattern is a long process, but once fit is accomplished, sewing them up takes 1-2hrs each.  I’m also in the middle of grading and fitting a 1950’s blouse pattern that I received in a pattern swap with a lovely lady from The Fedora Lounge.

This outfit shows why I am thinking about changing my blog.  Yes, I love vintage patterns, but not everything I sew is vintage.  It is possible to find stylish, flattering modern patterns that aren’t for teenage girls or make one look pregnant.  The added bonus of working with modern patterns is that it makes it easier to work with the new fabrics that keep hitting the market.  Another reason to keep working with modern patterns is that sometimes you just need to look nice, but not draw attention.  The vintage garments always draw attention and not all of it positive.  The question, dear readers, is this: should I change the blog name and address to allow modern and vintage projects or keep the blog as is, with the occasional modern project?

The top is Butterick 4986 in matte jersey and the skirt is Kwik Sew 3287 in cotton calico

The blouse is Simplicity 3777, a T&T (tried and true) blouse pattern that I’ve made several times. It is a cotton shirting from my local Hancock Fabrics. The skirt is Simplicity 0517, a vintage reissue, in a heavy linen from www.denverfabrics.com. I’ve made this skirt a few times, but this time I added in-seam pockets and it changed the fit. The fabric is heavy enough that I should have used a lining fabric for the pockets. To my eye, it makes the skirt a bit lumpy at the hip. I’ve made this outfit a few times, in other fabrics, and have always been happy with it. For some reason, this feels a bit matronly to me. I’ll probably wear it church, but no where else.

This pattern was very quick to sew up. From cutting to hemming, it took a total of 4 hours. Normally, I stay away from sleeveless tops, but I really like the collar. If I sew this again, I’ll try adding a cap sleeve.