McCall’s 5974 is part of the Palmer/Pletsch Classic Fit line.  This is called “the perfect knit dress”.  While I wouldn’t call it “the perfect knit dress”, I do like it.  What makes P/P patterns different is that they have most of the common alteration lines printed on the tissue pieces.  My only complaint with this pattern is that there is no line for an above waist petite adjustment line.  I did do a FBA, but should have added more length to the bodice front.  Looking at the other reviews on PR, they show the bottom of the waistband insert sitting at the natural waist.  The finished garment is cute and VERY comfortable.  I’d like to try another version with a lowered waistband to make my final decision on this pattern.

This is what I feel is an example of “new vintage”.  It’s a modern pattern that has a retro feel to it.  This might be an option for a sewer who isn’t comfortable with vintage patterns.  The views with the scoop neck don’t really look vintage and the view with pockets doesn’t either, but the collar sure does.  I’ve become a bit obsessed with this kind of collar lately.  I love it, but I think it might be a bit over the top.  This is just the muslin, as I just can’t wear that color red.  I’m going to take a couple days to think about the collar before cutting into my fashion fabric.  The pattern is New Look 6909.

I also want to show off this pattern.  I have wanted to make some vintage styled jeans for quite a while but have been hesitant to grade up trouser patterns.  I managed to find one in my size. I am concerned that they will look like “mom jeans” but I hope with the right top they will just look vintage,

Ah, back to vintage sewing.  I think now that we’ve settled into the back-to-school routine, I should be able to spend more time on complicated projects.  McCall’s 3988 is one of my favorite patterns in my collection.  The button band was quite complicated, so I ended up leaving it off.  Other than that, it’s a very straight forward sew.  I do plan on sewing it again.  Next, I want to try the slim skirted version, then I will use a circle skirt instead of the dirndle skirt.  I don’t need any extra fabric on my waist or hips!  As an aside, this spring, I stopped dyeing my hair.  This is the first picture that seems to show more gray than dyed hair.  I’m really happy to see the progress.

This is a current pattern but a good, classic style.  Every gal needs a little black dress in her wardrobe.  Believe it or not, I have made it to this ripe age without one.  I had to do all kinds of alterations to make it fit, but it can now be used as the starting point for other dresses.  My PR review can be found at http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/readreview.pl?readreview=1&reviewnum=42467

This is an early 1960’s Simplicity pattern, which is a good example of the transition from the New Look 1950s styles and the mod styles of the mid-to-late 1960s.  This dress is ends my relationship with linen.  Back when I was involved in historical reenacting, I sewing with linen and wool exclusively.  However, it just doesn’t work for 1950’s, early 60’s fitted garments.  The muslin of this dress was much more fitted and showed off my waist much better.  In linen, it just sorts of sags.  However, linen is ideal in hot, humid D.C. summers.  I love the pleats and the bow and plan on making this in a stiff, woven cotton.

I know many of you have already seen this dress, but I’ve decided to go to a more regular schedule, posting every Sunday or Monday.

Today’s post illustrates 2 points about modern sewing.  The first is that it’s possible to get a vintage look with modern patterns.  This is important for newer sewists who might be hesitant to try unprinted patterns or grading to their size.  Another plus with Butterick 4443 is that it takes significantly less fabric than the average 1950’s pattern, just 2 yards of fasjion fabric and 1 of lining.  The average full skirted dress in my collection calls for 4 yards of fabric.  This makes Butterick 4443 an affordable alternative to actual vintage patterns.

The second point is about fit.  I get many comments on the fit of my vintage garments.  This is because I start with a pattern that fits through the shoulders and neckline, then grade up only where I need more room.  This should also be done with modern patterns.  Most modern Big 4 patterns are drafted for a B-C cup bra.  If you are larger than that, you need to use you high bust (measure just under your armpits) measurement to choose your pattern.  This could be 1-3 sizes smaller than what’s recommended on the back of the pattern envelope.  If the finished measurement printed on the pattern paper isn’t enough room, you then need to do a FBA (full bust aadjustment). http://www.timmelfabrics.com/fullbustalteration.htm is a good article on how to do it.  The photos below illustrate the difference between choosing the size listed on the back and choosing the size based on high bust, with a FBA.  They are both Butterick 4443, the only design element changes are the neckline and inseam pockets on the second dress.

This is what we call a “wearable muslin”.  That means that it’s cheap tester fabric that you don’t mind wearing if it turns out right or tossing if it’s a wadder.  This dress is also an example of why it’s important to do a muslin.  The pattern is a size 12, 30in bust.  These small patterns take alot of care when being sized up.  I did a muslin of the bodice, tweaked it here and there, then made the dress.  I was really unhappy with this dress and the fact that, even disregarding the lack of cumerbund, it looks nothing like the original.  After a test-wearing yesterday and some pinning, I determined that I need to take 1-2inches off each side seam in order for it to fit like a true 50’s dress.  My numbers were right, how did my grading turn out so off?  I hadn’t measured myself in nearly a month.  While I jump on the scale daily, I don’t often measure myself.  Since my back has healed enough to get back to an easy exercise program, I’ve lost 2 inches off my waist.  That’s not alot in modern clothing, but a big deal in 50’s clothing.  Remember ladies, even if you think you’re exactly the same, measure yourself before the start of each project.

Hollywood 1059 took a lot of work.  To start with, it’s sized for a 34bust.  This was another big grade up.  Then, because of the front center pleats. doing a FBA and low bust adjustment were difficult.  I had lots of difficulty applying the piping to the neckline because of the front center point.  I’m still not quite sure about this dress.  While I really like wartime hair and shoes, I just don’t think it suits me as well as the 50s styles.  The 50’s styles suit me whether I’m slim or with some extra weight.  This goes back to my post about picking styles.  Your body type doesn’t change much with weight, but when you have some extra weight, working WITH your type is even more important.  This dress goes against my type.

I fell in love with the pattern the minute I laid eyes on it.  The scooped waist seam is an interesting detail I hadn’t seen before.  The option of long sleeves is appealing, as I don’t have many long sleeved patterns.  The princess seamed bodice is something I hadn’t tried on vintage patterns before. So many new details to try!

The first step was to grade up.  The original pattern is sized to fit a 32 bust, 26 waist and 35 hip.  After my first muslin was completed, it should that the waist needed to be lowered an inch.  Those were the only alterations needed to the bodice.  To the skirt, I took a 1in fold in length, then cut 4in off the finished hem length.  I’m not quite as happy with the finished product as I was with the bodice before the skirt went on.  The heavy skirt pulls the bodice down, so it doesn’t quite fit as nicely as without the skirt, but it’s still a pretty dress.

Here is a close-up of the fabric.  I LOVE this fabric!

Today, we have Butterick 7439.  According to http://www.cemetarian.com, this pattern was published in 1955.  I’m not quite sure about this one.  While I love the neckline and collar and the bodice fit without any adjustment, I think the skirt is too narrow.  The brown flannel dress has an A-line skirt, too, but I think is flared a bit more.  I also think this dress would look better with a self fabric, skinny belt, but in a rush to clean up prior to having guest, the leftover fabric got thrown out.  I think I make use the bodice again, but with a different skirt.