I have a bunch of FOs to share but I though this dress deserved it’s own post. Cake Patterns (sewingcake.com) is a new line of patterns from Steph at http://3hourspast.com/. Tiramisu is the first release. Normally, I don’t go in for knit dresses but I like supporting indie designers and I like how much work went into making a wrap that doesn’t gap.
This is supposed to be a relatively easy pattern to construct. Well, I had quite a few problems with it. They started off with the sizing. You are supposed to pick your size based on your high bust (30, 35, 40, 45, 50) then within each size is a range of cup sizes. Based on my measurements, My high bust fits the 40, but my full bust fits the 50A. I probably should have emailed Steph to get her recommendation for size, but after stewing and going back and forth, I went with the 45D and a FBA. In the end, I think this was the wrong choice. The 50 has a larger overlap that might have prevented the gapping neckline.
The next issue was making it petite. There are no above-the-waist adjustment lines. I decided to take a 0.5″ fold through the midriff. My fabric is a very soft, very drapey rayon jersey with a high lycra content. I think this contributes to how much the waist droops. On the other hand, I also have sloping shoulders, which are hard to adjust for in a typical kimono sleeve.
The final sewing issue I had was the neck binding. On a typical knit pattern, the neckline binding is about 85-90% of the finished length of the neckline. This keeps the neckline from stretching out, as well as making sure the binding hugs the body. The binding for Tiramisu was about 1 inch LONGER than the neckline. Of the few other bloggers who have posted Tiramisu, none of them have mentioned this. Then again, they are all slim ladies, who haven’t made the larger sizes. It seems to be quite common in indie patterns to find drafting issues on either end of the size spectrum.
Having given what might look like a negative review, I have to say I rather like the dress. The grey color makes it quite plain, but it goes with every single cardi in my wardrobe. It is quite comfy and I plan to wear it to work tomorrow to give it a real, hard test drive. If it passes the work test, I’ll start in on some more colorful versions of Tiramisu.