Simplicity 4920
This is an early 1960’s Simplicity pattern, which is a good example of the transition from the New Look 1950s styles and the mod styles of the mid-to-late 1960s. This dress is ends my relationship with linen. Back when I was involved in historical reenacting, I sewing with linen and wool exclusively. However, it just doesn’t work for 1950’s, early 60’s fitted garments. The muslin of this dress was much more fitted and showed off my waist much better. In linen, it just sorts of sags. However, linen is ideal in hot, humid D.C. summers. I love the pleats and the bow and plan on making this in a stiff, woven cotton.
KwikSew 3485
This is my husband’s Father’s Day present. He really likes retro bowling shirts, like DaVinci and Steady. However, most of those shirts are a heavy polyester, not the best thing for hot and humid D.C. summers. I hope a cotton version of his favorite style will prove to be more comfortable. This pattern, like most KwikSew patterns, was a straightforward sew with great directions. I could see making many more of this pattern.
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Butterick 4443
I know many of you have already seen this dress, but I’ve decided to go to a more regular schedule, posting every Sunday or Monday.
Today’s post illustrates 2 points about modern sewing. The first is that it’s possible to get a vintage look with modern patterns. This is important for newer sewists who might be hesitant to try unprinted patterns or grading to their size. Another plus with Butterick 4443 is that it takes significantly less fabric than the average 1950’s pattern, just 2 yards of fasjion fabric and 1 of lining. The average full skirted dress in my collection calls for 4 yards of fabric. This makes Butterick 4443 an affordable alternative to actual vintage patterns.
The second point is about fit. I get many comments on the fit of my vintage garments. This is because I start with a pattern that fits through the shoulders and neckline, then grade up only where I need more room. This should also be done with modern patterns. Most modern Big 4 patterns are drafted for a B-C cup bra. If you are larger than that, you need to use you high bust (measure just under your armpits) measurement to choose your pattern. This could be 1-3 sizes smaller than what’s recommended on the back of the pattern envelope. If the finished measurement printed on the pattern paper isn’t enough room, you then need to do a FBA (full bust aadjustment). http://www.timmelfabrics.com/fullbustalteration.htm is a good article on how to do it. The photos below illustrate the difference between choosing the size listed on the back and choosing the size based on high bust, with a FBA. They are both Butterick 4443, the only design element changes are the neckline and inseam pockets on the second dress.
Butterick 7785
This is what we call a “wearable muslin”. That means that it’s cheap tester fabric that you don’t mind wearing if it turns out right or tossing if it’s a wadder. This dress is also an example of why it’s important to do a muslin. The pattern is a size 12, 30in bust. These small patterns take alot of care when being sized up. I did a muslin of the bodice, tweaked it here and there, then made the dress. I was really unhappy with this dress and the fact that, even disregarding the lack of cumerbund, it looks nothing like the original. After a test-wearing yesterday and some pinning, I determined that I need to take 1-2inches off each side seam in order for it to fit like a true 50’s dress. My numbers were right, how did my grading turn out so off? I hadn’t measured myself in nearly a month. While I jump on the scale daily, I don’t often measure myself. Since my back has healed enough to get back to an easy exercise program, I’ve lost 2 inches off my waist. That’s not alot in modern clothing, but a big deal in 50’s clothing. Remember ladies, even if you think you’re exactly the same, measure yourself before the start of each project.
