Another McCalls 9158
My first version of McCalls 9158 was the navy with white polka dots, http://newvintage.wordpress.com/2008/07/06/mccalls-9158-complete/. This time, I’m making the 3/4 length sleeve in a wool blend that has been sitting in my fabric stash for at least 6 years, possibly more. The navy version was a little snug, so I added a bit more room to this version. I think I may have added too much. It looks quite big through the waist. I won’t know for sure until I put the zipper in. Because it’s a wool blend, I’ve lined the bodice and plan to line the sleeves. While this dress will be warm, I don’t plan on buying any more wool. It’s making my hands red just handling it for sewing. I hope I’ll be able to wear it without discomfort.
Two new things to share
I was quite bust last week, but my camera battery died, so this post has two items. I finished a third, a flannel nightgown from a 50’s pattern, but it came out HUGE! It was my first time grading a pattern down and I was not successful.
The first item is the completed dress from McCall’s 6566. This had such potential. Based on the measurments of the pattern pieces, I graded up 1.75in on the front and back pieces. Once I tried the bodice on, I realized that I didn’t need to add anything. The same thing happened with the waist length. Based on measuring the pieces, I added 2in to the bodice length. I ended up cutting it off again. I think that really changed the line of this dress. I forgot to redraft the side seam at the waist for the higher seam, so it’s not as fitted as it should have been. Of course, I didn’t realize that until I tried it on for hemming. I’m not sure I’m happy with this dress, but it’s very warm and the print is cute.
The second item is a blouse from a pattern that is T&T (tried and true). The original pattern is sleeveless, but it seems to work well with the added 3/4 sleeve. This blouse looks great with jeans or a pencil skirt, takes 2yrds of fabric and only about 2hrs of work, from cutting to hemming. I have plans to make a couple more of these.
Back in the saddle
As promised, September is finished and I’m back to vintage projects. I have started on McCall’s 6566. This is my first 60’s pattern and so far, I like it. This pattern seems to have all the features of most modern patterns, which is nice.
I’ve already made a ton of mistakes, but money is a bit tight right now, so I’m not giving up on this fabric. I choose a baby wale cord. First mistake: forgot to account for the nap. Because of that, the back skirt pieces have the nap going opposite of the rest of the dress. At first glance, the print appears to be non-directional, but in fact, all the large apples are pointing the same way. I hope people won’t be staring at my rear end closely enough to notice. The second mistake was that in working around the nap, I cut two right fronts and right backs. I had to trim the waist seam to make it curved on the left side. I hope it doesn’t affect the drape of the skirt. The third mistake told me it was time to leave the workroom for the night. I sewed the pockets to the front, then sewed the skirt front to the bodice front. I completely forgot that I can construct the garment this way (front bodice to front skirt, back bodice to back skirt, then side seams) when there are in-seam pockets. I had to rip it out.
